Solid wood
- Each board is a single piece of timber.
- Can be sanded and refinished many times over its life.
- Moves with changes in humidity and temperature, so it is less suited to kitchens, bathrooms, conservatories and many underfloor heating systems.
- Often nailed or glued to a suitable subfloor.
Engineered wood
- A real wood top layer bonded to layers of plywood or softwood beneath.
- More stable than solid wood, so it is often recommended over underfloor heating and in rooms with more variation in temperature (check the manufacturer’s guidance).
- Can be sanded, but how many times depends on the thickness of the top layer.
Laminate
- A printed image of wood under a hard-wearing clear layer, on a fibreboard core.
- Usually the most budget-friendly, and resistant to scratches.
- Cannot be sanded. Standard laminate does not like standing water; water-resistant versions exist.
Fitting matters
- Subfloor: must be flat, dry and sound. New screeds need to be dry before wood goes down.
- Acclimatisation: many products need to sit in the room before fitting; follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Expansion gaps: wood floors need gaps at the edges, hidden under skirting or beading.
- Underlay: the right underlay helps with sound, warmth and moisture. In flats, check your lease for any sound insulation requirements before laying hard floors.
Find a fitter
Ask your fitter what is included: removing old flooring, preparing the subfloor, underlay, door bars, and refitting or replacing skirting. Compare local carpenters and flooring fitters.
Last updated: 14 October 2026
